If your engine is running rough many people will jump in and say try this or try that. The reality is, diagnosing your specific issue over the internet isn’t easy so many people share their own experiences convinced its the same as your issue.
If the vehicle wont start as opposed to just running rough read the My Camper won’t start Guide
If your engine is running but not particularly well then don’t fight it, you need to follow a logical process, check one thing at a time and start and from the beginning. Valve and ignition tuning and checks need to be done first with the carburettor being the last thing to check and tune. As a Vw mechanic I do the following :
- Tune valves when engine is cold, inspect for any broken parts, stick valves or missing springs and washers.
- Clean and gap plugs, points and rotor arm. Test that you have a good clean spark, if not change both points, condensor and rotor arm.
- If the above does not provide a good consistent spark when cold and hot then clean your coil terminals and inspect wiring. You should then also test the coil (How to Here).
- Check distributor cap terminals are clean inside and out and that the carbon sprung nodule is still attached.
- Inspect ignition leads for broken or corroded ends, splits or melts in the wire and cracks or bits missing on the plastic ends.
- Reset the timing.
- Check the carb choke is operating correctly and that the cut off solenoid is operational and not loose.
- Setup carb properly including the choke and correct idle speed.
- If you still have an issue then remove the carb jets and blow them with carb cleaner and compressed air, I personally use the following :
- If still an issue check your preheat pipes are getting warm. If your manifold is cold, wet or icy below the carb you may be suffering from icing. Blocked pre heat pipes, incorrect carbs and spacers below the carb heighten this.
- To check for an issues on a specific cylinder run the engine and carefully take one ignition lead off at a time from the distributor. First you should have a good spark when you move it close, secondly the engine note should change when you move it far enough away to not make contact. If by removing any of the leads your engine note doesn’t change then you have an issue with that specific cylinder. This can be as simple as a blocked idle jet but other causes can be leaking inlet or outlet or breakage/issue in your valve train.
- To check for inlet leaks spray non flammable liquid preferably from an aerosol around the manifold joints (rubbers and manifold to cylinder head joints). Note you should never use metal gaskets as they don’t make a good seal.
If now running better but you are still suffering from hesitation or hard starting you need to ensure you carb is correctly jetted, your carb spindle isn’t worn out and leaking fuel and that you have a SVDA distributor fitted as 009’s are notorious for causing hesitation off idle.
If you need any advise please don’t hesitate to contact me 🙂
Nice advice. Good early morning reading. Thanks for sharing.
My Pleasure Rob 🙂