How to prepare your VW camper for winter
I like to use my camper throughout the winter, having got used to -12 in Canada the UK winters seem mild by comparison. I do however have to ensure my camper is up for whatever the elements can throw at it, I don’t take anything for granted. Here I will go through the preparations I make so I can continue to explore safely throughout the winter.
If you prefer to tuck your pride and joy away for the winter months then scroll down as I will cover what you need to do prior to stopping driving.
To see the kit I carry and use through the winter months click the image below :
Why is winter driving different and what do I need to do?
With the nights drawing in, temperatures dropping and a lot more rain around the strain on your aircooled is different than during the summer. You will use your lights and windscreen wipers more, the roads can become slippery through rain and ice and it most definitely will get colder.
If you don’t mind getting down and dirty and have the tools to check your vw’s health then go for it, if however you are unsure then get someone to check it for you. This is for your own safety.
Winter checklist
This list covers everything you should consider. You may not need to do all if you serviced your vehicle recently.
1) Check your tyres.
Check for wear, damage and tread depth using a Tread Depth Gauge and ensure they are inflated correctly.
2) Check your brake fluid.
Is your fluid low? Is it old and dark in colour? Brake fluid absorbs water over time and reduces the efficiency of your braking system. It’s good practise to bleed the system with new DOT 4 Brake and clutch fluid yearly/ bi yearly.
3) Adjust your brakes.
Pulling to one side or not holding on the handbrake? Ensure the drums are adjusted correctly and that the handbrake is working within tolerances by adjusting the cables. If everything is adjusted correctly and you still have uneven braking check the wheel cylinders for correct operation and suspect a potential collapsed flexi line.
4) Check your wipers and washer system.
Not sure when the wipers were last changed? Now’s the time do change them. You will be using them a lot over the winter. In-efficient wipers are an MOT fail.
Top up the washer fluid ensuring you use a grade that is suitable for low temperatures. If you have the original washer you will need to pressurise it. If it doesn’t work it’s also an MOT fail, perhaps time to change it to an electronic system?
5) Check your battery and charging system.
Your battery takes a real beating over winter. Batteries hate the cold weather and you will be using wipers and lights (as well as playing your cool tunes) more than in the summer.
A worthwhile investment is a battery charger and a multimeter. Take your battery out and put it on charge for at least 24hours. Then let it sit for another 12-24 hours disconnected (that part is very important) so you can test its resting voltage. Your resting voltage should be around 12.7 volts for a healthy battery. If your battery is below that after a full charge consider changing it.
When the engine is running and battery connected carefully check the battery with a multimeter to check what charge it is receiving. Ideally the alternator should put out between 13.8 and 14.2 volts.
6) Check your lights
Ensuring you can see and that people can see you coming is pretty darn important. This should be a check your regularly do winter or summer but as you will be doing more night time driving it is even more important.
Get a friend to help and ensure all the lights are working properly. Front sidelights, main and high beam, indicators, hazards, brake lights and reverse and fog lights if you have them fitted.
Most problems I encounter are due to poor earthing or blown bulbs.
7) Check the engine
It goes without saying that your engine should be regularly serviced and be in good running order :
As a minimum on an aircooled engine you should do the following every 3000 miles on T1 engines and every 5000 miles on T4 engines
*Oil change & new strainer
Consider changing to a different weight of oil more suitable for colder temperatures. 30w is perfect for summer but below zero you should consider 20w50
*Clean and gap plugs & points, inspect rotor arm, dissy cap, condensor, fanbelt & ignition leads.
*Set valve gap, replace rocker gaskets.
*Adjust timing & adjust carburettor
8) Steering and drive components
You should be getting underneath to check your steering and drive joints and components at least once a year.
You should check / implement the following
*A Chassis Grease-up
*Check Clutch free play
*Inspect oil and fuel hoses
*Air + fuel filter change
*Compression check
*Check / adjust carb + Timing
*Check gearbox fluid level
*Inspect steering & Suspension rubber and joints for play / damage.
*Check cv joint boots
*Inspect exhaust for leaks
9) Heating
Now that your camper is running beautifully it’s time to keep you warm on your adventures! Despite its reputation the VW camper and beetle heating system is more than adequate. The bad reputation comes from broken/ disconnected heater control cables and levers, poor quality aftermarket heat exchangers and leaking pipework. It really isn’t rocket science, ensure there is a good sealed airflow from your fanhousing all the way to the cab and that the heat exchangers can open and close properly with the dash controls and you will have toasty feet!
10) Clean, polish and protect
I adventure out in all weather and rely on the best wax available to protect my paint. Collinite 476 is what you need, it lasts up to 6 months is perfect for preserving patina and is simply the best. Buy some you won’t look back!
Keeping your vehicle clean and free of mud, salt and crap from the road will help keep moisture and salt away from your chassis and bodywork.
Once clean a good coating in waxoyl will really do wonders for protecting your chassis. Every joint, gap, nook and cranny!
For the cavities (drain holes in all doors and hatches) Dinitrol cavity wax is what you need.
If you want to go all out then you can remove your interior door and quarter panels and get that cavity wax in there. The alternative is to drill a small hole underneath each unaccessible area, spray full of wax and then seal up with a rubber bung.
If you have the luxury of a garage or covered storage then great, that will really help you keep your camper nice and dry. For everyone else, get yourself as highquality multy layer breathable cover. Just Kampers do a superb one. Don’t be tempted to just check a tarp over it, it will trap a moisture barrier and cause more harm than good.
r it, it will trap a moisture barrier and cause more harm than good.
1) Fuel stabiliser
The worst thing for a fuel system is to not be used for extended periods of time. The ethanol in Fuel will absorb water and eat away at rubber hoses as well as rusting fuel tanks. (see full article here on fuel lines and ethanol).
Fuel after just one month starts to break down. It not only will become pretty useless for combustion but it will attriube to gum, varnish and rust building up in your fuel tank. It’s best practice to check all your fuel lines regularly and replace them every few years at a maximum but using a fuel stabiliser will help to prolong the life of any rubber components.
For storage you could fully drain the tank but this leaves it open to the air and the bare metal will start oxidising. Fill you tank to 95% full so no condensation can build up and add a fuel stabiliser, this will help counteract the above and keep your fuel fresh for up to two years. Ensure once added to your fuel tank that your engine is run to allow the stabiliser to reach all areas of your fuel system.
I use Sta-bil, enough to fill a whole tank with room to spare. The best price I found was in amazon. Click for link :
2) Lubricate all locks and moving parts
Moving parts seize if they are not used, as you won’t be opening your doors or turning any locks for a while ensure they are all lubricated before you put your camper in storage.
3) Moisture is a bugger
Crack open window to avoid condensation building up inside your bus. If you store in a particularly damp area try using a bucket with hold in full of rock salt sat in another bucket. Rock salt absorbs water, so as long as you drain the excess away once in a while it will help keep the moisture away from your bus/ Another tip is using rice in socks, it sounds mad but it totally works as the rice absorbs moisture!
4) Drain any water
Yes I know we are talking aircooleds, however if you have a water stoorage tank ensure you drain it to reduce the risk or bacteria growing or ice cracking your tank.
5) Refresh fluids
Old oil, brake fluid and washer fluid can cause havoc in their own systems. Oil can become acidic and carcinogenic with use, brake fluid can absorb water and washer fluid can become viscous and block your jets. Before your store your vehicle renew your fluids.
6) Remove gas tanks
If you store gas it’s better to remove and store in a cool dry place for safety reasons.
7) Remove battery
Batteries hate the cold and damp, they also really dislike being allowed to fully discharge. If you are storing your bus then remove the batterie(s) and put them somewhere safe and out of the way. Preferable at room temperature and fully charged.
8) Clean inside and out and wax
Mud, sand and salt contains materials that can trap moisture / cause rust. Before you store your vehicle give it a deep clean, dry and wax polish. I highly recommend Collinite 476 as it’s the best there is and seals for 6months! It’s also the perfect patina preserver, get some you will be amazed!
9) Pump up your tyres
Don’t be tempted to store you vehicle jacked up as this will put strain on the suspension joints and rubbers. Top up your tyre pressures and leave alone.
10) Chock wheels and release handbrake
Your handbrake can become ceased and your cables can become stretched if left on for months at a time. Therefore I always check the wheels, put in gear and remove the handbrake.
Start once a month and run for a good 30 minutes revving every 5. Rotate the wheels, pump the brakes and go for a run on a dry day to keep everything moving. When spring comes you will be glad you took the time to properly look after you camper, it will run with far less issues and most likely only need a small service or a check over before you hit the road on some new adventures!
